Learning how to make a simple quilt by hand is truly a lot easier
than you may think. And once you have the basic quilting
instructions down, it's just a matter of repeating the process. So
if you're looking for quilting for beginners-type directions, this
is for you!
1. Decide on your quilt pattern.If this is your first
quilt, go for a simple pattern for a small quilt. Limit your color
pallet to a few colors or patterns, and use a basic block pattern.
Full squares or triangles made from half squares are good options
for first-time quilters. Do you have a baby shower coming up? Baby
quilts are smaller, so they're great for first projects. Keep in
mind, you can also do a very basic "pattern" that doesn't require an
actual pattern at all! With quilting, creativity is the name of the
game!
2. Collect your materials and tools.You don't need a lot of
tools to quilt, but having everything you need on hand before you
start is always a good idea. Be sure you read your pattern entirely
so you know how much and what kind of fabric to purchase. You'll
also need backing fabric, thread, binding fabric and batting. If you
don't have any sewing supplies, you should consider getting the
tools listed below:
Rotary cutter, either 45mm or 60mm
Regular, good, sharp scissors, like the Original Orange-handled
Scissors from Fiskars
Cutting mat, 24" x 36" is best for large quilting projects
Clear acrylic ruler
Straight pins
Safety pins
Seam ripper
Iron
To make it even easier, you can start with the Fiskars®
Beginner Quilting Setwhich contains many of the above listed
tools.
3. Prewash your fabric.This is sort of an "optional" step -
but it's one I live by. Prewashing your fabric does two things:
rinses any extra dye out of the fabric and shrinks it. Both of these
things can ruin your quilt when you wash it for the first time.
Higher quality fabrics generally don't have this issue, but better
to be safe than sorry.
4. Iron your fabric.Before you cut your fabric, removing
wrinkles will make the process much easier. Use your iron's steam
setting if it has one.
5. Measure and cut your patchwork.After deciding how big
you want your quilt to be, you can work backwards, determining the
size of each square - remember to factor in a seam allowance. A good
rule of thumb is to add ¼" per side. So, if you are making a quilt
with 3" x 3" squares, you actually want to cut each square to 3½" x
3½". If you're using a pattern, the dimensions will be detailed for
you. Once you've measured, you can cut each piece out to the
determined size. You must be very accurate with your cuts. Use your
clear acrylic ruler and your rotary cutter to cut each piece. Be
sure you place the fabric on your cutting mat so you don't roll into
the table or work surface underneath.
6. Lay your quilt out.This is my favorite part! Lay your
quilt out according to the finished design you want. Move pieces
around, swap prints in different places. Let your creativity take
over. This step is best done on the floor, where you can spread out.
Once you're satisfied with the design, pick up your patches in rows,
being careful to keep them in order. Working left to right, simply
pick up and place each piece on top of the last from the previous
row.
7. Sew your patchwork into rows.You want to take care to
sew a perfectly straight seam so you don't end up with a puckered
finish product or with unmatched seams as you work your way down the
quilt. Sew several individual rows together. Remember - be careful
to use a straight stitch and to be precise in your ¼" seam.
8. Iron your rows.After you have all your long rows sewn
together, you need to press the seams so they'll lay flat. Flip your
quilt upside down, so the unfinished side is up. Iron each seam
flat, alternating directions. The first row, iron the underside of
the seam flat to the right side, the second row, iron flat to the
left side and so on.
9. Sew the quilt all together.Once your rows are all
together, it's time to sew each row to the next, again taking care
to use a consistent, exact ¼" seam. Take row 1 and row 2, turn them
both inward so the finished sides are facing one another. Sew, using
a straight stitch just like you did when making the rows. Repeat
until all your rows are aligned and sewn together.
10. Iron your whole quilt.This time, you'll iron the front
side of your quilt. Use the same technique and process you did with
the rows, alternating the direction you iron the underside seams
flat.
11. Make your quilt sandwich and baste your quilt.You're
now at the basting step. Basting will temporarily hold your quilt
"sandwich" together - a quilt sandwich refers to all the layers of
your quilt...the front, the batting (or stuffing) and the backing.
Layer your quilt in the correct order:
Backing - right side down. You want to cut your backing at least
5" wider on all
sides than the actual size of your quilt.
Batting - the stuffing, or middle of the quilt. Make your
batting a few inches wider than
your top layer.
Front - right side up.
Line up your quilt perfectly, working out any wrinkles and smoothing
from the center out toward all directions. You can either use pins
or basting adhesive spray. Note:
If you use spray, you want to spray each layer before adding the
next when you're making your sandwich.
If you pin, you'd simply use safety pins starting in the center,
and moving out in all directions. You could also opt to use both
techniques (spraying and then pinning), if you want to be extra
careful.
12. Stitching.Decide how you want to stitch your quilt
together before you start. You can be super fancy, or you can stick
to a simple, straight lined, rowed pattern.
13. Time to bind!Binding gives a quilt that finished look
you want, with a soft border all the way around the patchwork. There
are several ways to bind your quilt, and ultimately the method you
choose will just come down to personal preference.
But my favorite way to bind is this:
First, I square-off the quilt. You do this by sewing all along
the perimeter of all four sides of your quilt. I usually make
the seam about 1/8" in. I then trim the edge all the way around.
To make your binding, cut strips of the fabric you'll use to
bind your quilt. The width of the fabric you cut depends on how
wide you want the bind to be. I usually do about a 2½" width,
but yours will depend on how large your quilt is.
Cut the length long enough to run the entire length of each
side. You want four strips, one for each side of your quilt.
Pin your binding in place. Use a lot of safety pins for this
step - you want the binding very secure so you don't have any
puckers or uneven edges once you sew.
Lay your binding face-to-face (pattern sides together) and sew
from the back side with about a ½" seam. Go all the way around,
folding the binding out at the end. You'll have a finished seam
and a pretty edge.
Finish the corners by sewing a diagonal stitch from corner to
corner.
Trim the outer triangle at the seam.
Repeat these steps until all the sides are sewn together, and
then unfold to create one long continuous binding strip.
Fold the strip in half, ironing to crease along the center.
Using straight pins, pin your binding all around the top side of
the quilt with the rough side out, and the folded side toward
the middle of your quilt. Be sure to leave a tail (about 8")
hanging off your quilt, unpinned.
As you get near each corner, fold the ends together into an
upward triangle. Insert a pin through and on either side of the
upwards triangle. Once you've gone all the way around your
quilt, you will "join" the strips. Fold the left side strip down
and trim as you see here.
Lay the right side binding strip inside the folded strip as
shown. Pin to secure.
Stitch around the edge of your binding - you want your seam
about ¼" from the rough edge.
Fold the binding over to the backside of your quilt, pin in
place and use a small, sharp needle to hand-stitch the binding
to the back.
Pros and Cons: Machine Quilting vs Hand Quilting
There's no right or wrong answer in terms of "which is better" when
it comes to hand quilting vs. machine quilting. For quilt making,
the way you go about it really just comes down to a matter of
choice.
Machine Quilting Overview
Benefits of Machine Quilting
Faster
Easy
Can do straight lines or diagonal lines on a grid
Drawbacks of Machine Quilting
May not be perceived as "as special" (most likely only in your
own eyes)
Some quilters experience neck and back pain from the repetitive,
short pushing and pulling motion of sewing such a big project on
a machine
Can be expensive to purchase if you don't already have a machine
Hand Quilting Overview
Benefits of Quilting by Hand
Heirloom quality
Sentimentality
Fun, for those who love the craft of quilting
Drawbacks of Quilting by Hand
Learning how to sew a quilt completely by hand may take a lot
longer
If you're not an accomplished seamstress, your stitches and
seams may be uneven
May not be as durable
Types of Quilts
Pieced. More commonly known as patchwork quilts, the pieced is
one of the most common of quilt styles - it's made up of patches
of material pieced together.
Appliquéd quilts. Appliqué is a technique where you sew shapes
onto a background to create a beautiful design.
Paper piecing. This technique is quite popular these days. It's
created by stitching your fabric design onto a patterned,
oftentimes numbered paper foundation. Think of it like paint by
numbers...only quilting.
English paper piecing. Similar to regular paper piecing, English
paper piecing is a traditional quilting style that uses shapes
with many sides, like hexagons. Similar shapes are cut out of
paper, and the fabric is folded and basted around them. Each
individual shape is then whip stitched together by hand.
Best Fabrics for Quilting
Home décor weight cotton. This heavy cotton is great for home
quilters. It has a pretty sateen finish and doesn't drape due to
its heavier weight. Keep in mind that because it's so heavy, you
can use a light batting with this quilting material.
Quilter's weight cotton. Widely considered one of the, if not
the, best cotton fabrics to quilt with. Its high quality and it
will shrink less than cheaper cotton versions.
Essex linen. This natural linen-cotton blend is by Robert
Kaufmann and is loved by quilters all over, especially when
combined with weighted styles of fabric.
Voile. A bit transparent, voile is a lightweight cotton that can
almost be described as silky. It's a popular option for backing
your quilt.
Quilter's linen. Another fabric by Robert Kaufmann, quilter's
linen is actually made from cotton but has the look and feel of
linen.
Common Questions About Quilting
What is a Quilting Stitch?
Most quilters use a simple running stitch when quilting by hand.
Insert the needle through the front of the fabric, catch a little
bit of the back and then reinsert through all the layers.
How Do You Make a Quilt Sandwich?
You make a quilt sandwich by placing all the layers together,
including: the backing, the batting and the top of your quilt. Keep
in mind that the bottom layer should be right side down, and the top
should be right side up.
What is Batting for Quilts?
Batting is the cottony, thick material that goes in the center of
your quilt. It’s what gives the quilt a “poofiness” once you stich
your pattern.
What is a Quilter's Knot?
A quilter's knot is a very small knot that can go through one layer
of fabric so you can hide the tail in between the fabric.
How Long Should a Quilting Stitch Be?
How long your quilting stitch should be really depends on if you're
machine sewing or sewing your quilt by hand. If you're using a
machine, set your stitch length to about 2½" - 3". If you're
stitching by hand, you want about 8-12 stitches per inch.
What Are Quilting Blocks?
Quilting blocks are any units you sew together. To create your
quilt, you assemble all your quilt blocks together to form a pattern
or design.
Quilting vs Sewing: What's the Difference?
Quilting is actually a type of sewing. It's the process of stitching
together two or more layers of fabric.