Now that you know about the tools and materials used
to cross stitch, let’s move on to the cross stitch
process itself. This page takes you through the
basics of cross stitch, starting with how to find
the centre of your fabric and make your first
stitch. We’ll then explain how to complete a variety
of stitches and knots, and how to end your thread.
Finding the Centre of Your Fabric
It's important to always begin stitching a design
in the centre of your fabric to make sure it's
centralised. To find the centre, gently fold your
fabric in half and then fold it in half again,
marking the centre with a needle or fabric pencil.
Once you've marked the centre, cut your desired
amount of stranded cotton, separate the strands as
your chart suggests, then thread it through the eye
of the needle. As previously discussed, your chart
uses black markings to indicate the centre of the
design – so that's how you know what to begin
stitching at the centre point of your fabric!
Beginning Your Stitch
There are several ways in which you can start a
stitch, but below we've included the best three
methods for beginners. Whichever method you choose
completely depends on your personal preference –
there isn't only one correct way!
In-Line Waste Knot Method
The In-Line Waste Knot Method is ideal when
beginning a new design. Begin by knotting the
end of your stranded cotton. Push your needle
into the front of the fabric, about one inch
away from the start of your design but along the
same line, pulling your cotton through to the
back. Bring your needle back up to the front of
the fabric, but this time at your starting
point. Begin making your full cross stitches,
stitching towards the knot. Ensure you cross
over each stitch on the back of the fabric to
secure the cotton. Once you reach the knot,
simply pull it up and cut it off very close to
the fabric, then continue stitching your design
– your stranded cotton will remain secure.
Away Waste Knot Method
The Away Waste Knot Method is fairly similar
to the In-Line Waste Knot Method in that it
involves creating a temporary knot, and is
equally as good for beginning a new project.
Begin by knotting the end of your stranded
cotton. Push your needle into the front of the
fabric several inches away from the start of
your design, but this time away from the
stitching line, pulling your cotton through to
the back. Continue stitching your design. This
time, it's only when you've run out of thread or
want to change thread colour that you pull the
knot up and cut it off close to the fabric. Turn
the fabric over and rethread your needle with
the excess cotton, then run it under a few of
your stitches on the backside of your fabric to
secure.
Stitching Over Method
The final beginner's starting method is the
Stitching Over Method. Begin by pulling your
threaded needle through from the back of the
fabric, so that it's now on the front – remember
to leave around an inch of stranded cotton at
the back. Hold this strand up against the
backside of your fabric, pointing it in the
direction that you'll stitch. Create your first
few stitches along this strand, thus securing it
to the fabric. Similarly to ending a thread, if
you've run out of cotton or want to change
colour, you can secure the new stranded cotton
by simply running the threaded needle under a
few of your most recent stitches on the backside
of the fabric, then continue stitching your
design.
Cross Stitch Stitches and Knots
Full Cross
Stitch
The most important
stitch you'll need to know is the Full Cross Stitch
– it is, after all, where the name derives from!
This simple x-shaped stitch is worked from the left
and repeated multiple times to form a design. To
begin, bring the needle up through the bottom left
square (1), then thread it down through into the top
right square, diagonal to it (2). Instead of
crossing over right away, stitchers will often
complete a row of half stitches, then work backwards
to cross them over. So, simply repeat the first step
in the square to the right (3) and so on. Finally,
repeat the process again, but this time working to
the left to form full crosses.
Back
Stitch
Used to finish off
stitched areas, the Back Stitch outlines completed
cross stitch designs in a different thread colour to
add definition and detail. Instead of working from
the left, this simple stitch is worked from the
right. To begin, bring your needle up through the
first square (1), then move horizontally to the
right and push your needle down into the next square
(2). This time, bring the needle up through the
square to the left of the first square (3), then
push it down through the first square (1) to form a
line. Continue this process – up through 4, then
down through 3, and so on.
Fractional
Stitches
'Fractional
Stitches' is a group term for Quarter Stitches, Half
Stitches and Three-Quarter Stitches. Basically,
they're specific fractions of a stitch. These
stitches allow much more detail within a design as
you can form pronounced curves and finer features,
so an evenweave fabric is recommended as it's easier
to pierce through the threads. These Fractional
Stitches are as follows...
Half Stitch
A Half Stitch is half of a whole cross
stitch, so only one diagonal line – instead of a
cross. Bring the needle up through the bottom
left square (1), then thread it down through
into the top right square diagonal to it (2).
Quarter Stitch
A Quarter Stitch is half of a half stitch –
punching between squares or threads. Bring the
needle up through the bottom left square (1) and
instead of threading down into the top right
diagonal square, stop halfway and pierce down
through the fabric threads (2).
Three-Quarter Stitch
A Three-Quarter Stitch is a half stitch then
a quarter stitch, forming a T-shape. Bring the
needle up through the bottom left square (1) and
push it down through the diagonal top right
square (2). Then, take it back up through the
hole directly below (3). To finish, bring your
needle up diagonally to the left, but stop where
the half stitch meets the middle point and
pierce down through the centre (4).
Stitching
Over 2 Threads
When you Stitch
Over 1 Thread, you simply stitch diagonally from
hole-to-hole. So, Stitching Over 2 Threads means
that you skip a hole for every stitch you make – you
stitch over two threads instead of one. Evenweave
and Linen fabrics are often stitched over two
threads due to the thread structure (unless
stitching highly defined features), whereas Aida
fabrics are mostly stitched over one.
French
Knot
Used to embellish
cross stitch designs, French Knots are, as
suggested, tiny knots often used for eyes, little
flowers or other defining details. The size of the
knot depends on how many cotton strands you use in
the needle – the more strands, the bigger the knot.
To complete a
French Knot, bring the needle up through your
fabric, then hold it firmly with your left (or
non-stitching) hand. Hold the needle facing away
from the fabric with your other hand, then wrap the
stranded cotton twice around the needle with your
left hand. If you'd prefer a bigger knot, wrap the
stranded cotton around your needle three times at
this stage.
Whilst holding the
cotton tightly with your left hand, point the needle
downwards and insert it into your fabric, directly
next to where you brought the needle up – but not in
the hole you came up through. Gently pull the cotton
all the way through the back, until your knot is
sitting on the front surface of the fabric.
Tweeding
Usually when you
use multiple strands of cotton in a stitch, you use
strands of the same colour in the needle at the same
time, thus thickening the stitches. Tweeding, on the
other hand, means that you use different coloured
strands in a stitch – usually one strand of each
colour – to embellish your design.
Blending Filament
is often used in Tweeding, and is a delicate,
metallic, thread-like substance that's combined with
stranded cottons to add sparkle, producing a unique
shimmer effect in your stitching.
Ending Your Thread
If you've run out
of stranded cotton in your threaded needle, want to
change your cotton colour, or just want to call it a
day, ending your thread is very simple. With the
stranded cotton still attached to the needle, simply
run it under the last few stitches you made on the
backside of your fabric, then cut the excess off. If
you want to start the thread again, rethread your
needle then run it under those stitches again to
secure the cottons.